Recipes for success: Chef Hadi Saroufim offers advice, shares a recipe for orange cake
DUBAI: Hadi Saroufim, head chef of Dubai's Beirut-import Bar Du Port, has been cooking since he was 10, but he really fell in love with the culinary world once he started training in a professional kitchen.
“The more I worked in the industry, the more I loved it. I feel happy doing what I do – it just feels right,” he tells Arab News.
“One of my earliest food memories is modernizing a traditional Lebanese dish, kibbeh, from my village of Zgharta in Lebanon. I made it into a kibbeh roll with ice cream yogurt, cucumber jelly and dry ice,” he says.
Bar Du Port. (Supplied)
His current favorite dish from the Bar Du Port menu is grilled octopus with dried chorizo, tomato tartare and smoked paprika coulis. “It uses simple ingredients but packs a punch,” he says. “This dish captures the essence of Mediterranean cuisine – fresh, bold and delicious.”
Here, Saroufim discusses burnt onions, annoying customer habits and the magic of vinegar.
When you were starting out, what was the most common mistake you made?
I often burnt the onion and garlic in the preparation. In a professional kitchen, even if you are assigned to a specific section, you have to multitask and work under tight time constraints. The pressure of juggling multiple tasks at once can be overwhelming, especially for a new chef. Balancing the preparation of different components while keeping an eye on cooking times and techniques is a skill that takes time to develop. Those beginnings were tough—but necessary to learn how to handle everything.
What is your best tip for amateurs?
Always use the best fresh produce available. Quality ingredients can elevate a dish from ordinary to extraordinary. When you start with fresh, premium produce, the natural flavors shine through. I have always admired how chef Alain Ducasse emphasizes “naturalité” in his cuisine, focusing on the purity of ingredients and letting their natural qualities speak for themselves. This philosophy also influenced my approach. Whether you're cooking a simple meal or an elaborate meal, the quality of your ingredients will always make a significant difference.
Finely sliced yolk with burnt orange, passion fruit sauce. (Supplied)
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
A vinegar such as Xeres Vinegar will instantly enhance any dish by adding a burst of flavor. A simple spritz can elevate a dish and bring out its best qualities, making it a must-have in any kitchen. I recommend it especially for risotto or salad dressings.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself criticizing the food?
I definitely pay attention to food, but I try not to be too critical. One thing I often notice is the overuse of sauces. While sauces can enhance a dish, too many can overpower the main product and mask the natural flavors.
What is your favorite cuisine?
I mainly enjoy French and Japanese cuisine. I also admire the craftsmanship behind quality beef dishes such as the carpaccio at Nobu, which inspires our own menu innovations.
Green lentil salad with rainbow cherry tomatoes, pomegranate and yogurt sumac dressing. (Supplied)
What customer behavior or request bothers you the most?
I love innovation and creativity – it's all part of the craft. For example, our avocado mash has a unique twist compared to the traditional guacamole recipe, and this once sparked a “friendly debate” with a guest about its preparation. While I always appreciate guest feedback, it can be annoying when customers insist on dishes that match their home recipes exactly, leaving little room for creativity.
What is your favorite food to cook?
I am passionate about cooking fish because of its delicate nature and the precision it requires. The right timing is essential to preserve its freshness and taste. One dish that I particularly enjoy making is butterflied sea bass. I love how simple yet elegant it is – seasoned with lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper and served with a refreshing zucchini tartare. It's food that showcases the beauty of fresh ingredients and allows me to express my creativity.
Burrata with kalamata olives, heirloom tomatoes, grilled zucchini and basil pesto. (Supplied)
What food is the most difficult for you to get right?
One of the most challenging dishes for me is the traditional French foie-gras terrine — a classic of French cuisine. It requires careful technique, especially the correct layering of the foie gras. Accuracy is key; a slight overstep can cause the layers to blend together, compromising the dish's texture and presentation. Mastering terrine requires meticulous attention to detail and a deep understanding of ingredients, making it technically challenging but highly rewarding.
What are you like as a chef? Do you shout a lot? Or are you more relaxed?
I focus on keeping the kitchen calm and organized. On our busiest nights we can serve up to 1200 covers in our relatively small kitchen, so it's important that everyone follows the rules. With a team of fifteen, discipline is key, but I avoid yelling because it's counterproductive.
Chef Hadi's Orange Cake Recipe
(Supplied)
INGREDIENTS
For the orange cake:
340 g of eggs; 470 g of sugar; 360 g of flour; 10 g of baking powder; 230 ml whipping cream; 160 g of butter (melted); 70 g of orange juice; 7 g of orange peel
For the orange syrup:
60 g of orange juice; 30 g of water; 30 g of sugar
For the meringues:
3 egg whites (100 g); 200 g of sugar
Next:
50 g of orange
INSTRUCTION
(Note: A bain-marie is required)
For the orange cake:
1. Preheat the oven to 160C.
2. Mix sugar and orange peel in a bowl. Add the egg and beat well.
3. Add orange juice and whipping cream. Mix thoroughly.
4. Sift flour and baking powder. Mix until there are no lumps.
5. Add the melted butter and mix well.
6. Pour the batter into the cake pan. Draw a straight line of melted butter on top.
7. Bake for 55 minutes.
8. Remove from the oven and pour the orange syrup over the cake. Leave to cool.
For the orange syrup:
1. In a small saucepan over very low heat, combine the orange juice, water and sugar.
2. Bring to a boil and stir until the sugar dissolves.
3. Remove from heat.
For the meringues:
1. Heat the egg whites to 65°C in a bain-marie.
2. Transfer the egg whites to a mixer.
3. Beating constantly, gradually add sugar until stiff peaks form.
Assembly:
1. Once the cake has cooled and absorbed the syrup, serve the slices with a dollop of meringue and (optionally) garnish with fresh orange slices and a dollop of orange ice cream.
